"Oh my god!" I screamed!
I was 196 feet in the air, on a bridge over water.
Ahead, the road disappeared as it appears to at the crest of a San Francisco Street. No, like Disneyland’s
Splash Mountain: you're floating log reaches the crest where you know it will plunge down. You try to look over the edge but don't see anything but space.
"Don't look down," I said.
"Yes, stupid, look down. You're driving. And
you're doing down there whether you like it or not."
So, I screamed as the bridge-road took a 196-foot dive
to a depth just skimming the water.
Sweetpea, lying on the seat beside me, couldn't see
over the edge of the window and only knew that I tend to have outbursts once in
a while.
So, why was I there?
Well, let me tell you, the Universe wanted to give me
a thrill. And me, with my propensity for making wrong turns, it was an easy
task.
I was in Astoria, Oregon, having just driven 350 miles
from home, and could see my motel sign, a dip down onto a street below mine.
Ms. GPS was talking to me: "Turn left at
Portway Street," she said. I spun around trying to see where Portway
Street was and drove straight ahead onto the bridge's on-ramp. And then the
little twerp GPS was silent. Did she tell me I had passed my turn-off? Nooo.
I was on the Astoria Megler Bridge, a 4.1-mile bridge,
the longest continuous truss bridge in North America. It was built to a height
of 196 feet at one point, so ocean-going vessels could sail beneath it without
knocking their masks off. Or whatever they have on board that sticks up to that
height.
It was also built to withstand wind gusts to 150 miles
per hour and a water speed of 9 miles per hour. The citizens of Astoria thought
William Buggee, the architect, was crazy and said nobody would use it, but an
average of 7,110 vehicles cross it daily, and Semis no less.
I had never heard of the Astoria Bridge, one of the
best ways to have an adventure. I was fixated on that span of road ahead that
was jacked up over the rooftops with a little bitty car climbing up its sloping
entrance. "That doesn't look safe to me," I said, and then I was on
it.
Those aren't bugs up there, a tractor-trailer and a car.
<-----------------------------------
The mighty Columbia. I would call it "Old Man
River," but that belongs to the Mississippi. Instead, it's Columbia,
the Gem of the Ocean. I have been curious most of my life about the mouth
of the Columbia, and I thought the bridge was over the mouth, but my friend,
whom I was visiting, said I was over the river, you can't see the mouth as it
is out in the ocean.
But there was water all over the place, first a bridge
over a bay into the city, then the river four miles wide and its famous bridge.
I grew up in The Dalles, Oregon, alongside the
Columbia River. We swam in that river before we knew Hanford Nuclear Production
Complex upstream was leaking toxic waste into it. We used to watch great
flotillas of logs pushed by tugboats being transported downriver to lumber
mills. One year, the river froze with big chunks of ice floating downstream. We
watched the building of The Dalles Dam, which flooded out Celilo Falls, an area
of the river that was narrow, rapid, and created a natural fish ladder where you
could watch salmon throw themselves up the rapids and thus gain access to their
home spawning grounds. Folklore says that once the salmon were plentiful, you
could walk across the river on their backs.
The Native Americans had a treaty with the US
government stating they could fish there forever. Well, they got relocated.
There are not many salmon in the river now, but some make their way upstream using
cement-built fish ladders around the various dams that change the once
tumultuous river into lazy lakes.
But I got to cross that bridge and the Columbia from
the perch high above the river, a glorious sight, and better than a roller
coaster. Sometimes the best adventures come from a mistake. Mid-river, Oregon
changes into Washington State, so I had to drive to Washington to turn around
and retrace those four miles back across the river.
Sweetpea, my little dog, was so excited when we got to the hotel, she
ran in circles around the room, up and up over the beds.
The following day, my friend told me that she once
walked that bridge with a crowd of other people. Pedestrian crossing is allowed
only once a year in October. A shuttle carries the people to the Washington
side, dumps them out, and makes them walk up that incline (as punishment
perhaps) back to Oregon. Her comment: "There weren't enough
porta-potties."
I picked up a small newspaper from her coffee table
called, as I remember,"The Columbia,” where an article explained the value of
tugboats. The ocean-going ships—those tremendous rigs, cargo ships, and such-need
moving water rushing past their propellers to make them maneuverable. In slack
water, they are sluggish. The day's heroes are the lowly little tugboats that
usher the big guys into the docks.
Prettier than a tugboat, this little lady escorted me
down the hill from my friend’s house.